Trappeze embodies warm atmosphere, excellent beer

Trappeze Pub
269 N. Hull St.
706-543-8997

By MAGGIE SUMMERS

We arrived rather late, around 9 o’clock, maybe a little after. The unrelenting rain did its best to deter our visit, but we battled against its angst and managed to slip inside mostly dry. The warm wood welcomed us into the thrice-sectioned building and a sign enticed us to seat ourselves; dim lighting and soft music lured us to a round table in a corner by the window. A carafe of water greeted us there, ready to join in on a long night of good food and great conversation at Trappeze Pub, one of the best atmospheres to be found among restaurants in Athens, Ga.

Many people are unaware of the fact that Trappeze sells food, as it is known for its extensive selection of beer. They boast 39 beers on tap and have over 300 bottled beers available. The food menu can easily pail in comparison to the unprecedented offering of beer. Their simple 15-item menu offers 2 appetizers, 2 salads, 3 soups, and 8 sandwiches. It is classic pub food, an agreeable accessory to a delicious tasting beer. Trappeze knows their clientele will ask endless questions about which beer to pair with what, and they train their wait staff accordingly.

Our waiter was patient with our inquires as we attempted to sort through the dense beer list; he suggested that a Pale Ale would go best with beef, and that if all else fails to turn to the Terrapin Rye, his favorite. I would have liked more help on choosing which beer would compliment my meal, but he was busy hustling about. He seemed to be the only person waiting on tables in the crowded pub, which was rather puzzling.

Our carefully chosen beer, a Bell’s Avery IPA, a Terrapin Reunion and a New Belgium Hoptober arrived at the table just as our mouths began to parch, and luckily our food arrived well in time to be enjoyed alongside.

I was grinning ear to ear as the waiter delivered my favorite sandwich in Athens, the inventive and original Vegetarian Rueben Sandwich. I would go back to Trappeze again and again for this sandwich alone. Made with avocados, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, tomatoes, spinach and homemade Thousand Island dressing, it was simply divine, and a steal as the cheapest sandwich on the menu. The combination of flavors is unique and incredible. The sauerkraut is the bulk of the sandwich, but the avocado flavor cannot be missed.

The California style Turkey and Swiss Sandwich stood in sharp contrast to my innovative Veggie Rueben; it was unimpressive and at $7.95, a sandwich that could easily have been made at home. My friend graciously hid her envy after trying the other dishes. Even with guacamole, it was ordinary and plain; the bacon was mostly absent in the taste. Luckily, the Weihenstephan honey mustard, a sweet, tangy aside saved it from complete disappointment.

As I took my first bite of the heavenly Vegetarian Rueben, my friend turned to me with a frown and asked me to try her Chimay Blue Beer Carbonade. I took a bite and realized instantly the reason for the frown: the dish was not warm enough. With some effort we tracked down the waiter and asked politely if he could warm it up. He kindly conceded, with a mouthful of apologies. When the dish was returned, it tasted infinitely better; it consisted of beef stewed in a Chimay Blue broth with sautéed onions served on a heap of garlic-mashed potatoes. It was delicious, perfect for a cold, rainy night. My friend had taken someone’s recommendation in trying the dish, and though she wasn’t instantly convinced of its quality, as she got to the end she remarked quietly, “Wow, I’m really into it now.”

We sat and relaxed after the meal, satisfied and full, and decided to order another round of beer. Therein lies Trappeze’s strength. The food may not be spectacular but it isn’t trying to be; the food is the afterthought. The warm atmosphere is inescapable and undeniable. Trappeze Pub embodies the great pleasure of a night filled with excellent beer, wonderful friends and an intimate environment where good food becomes great food simply because of the experience.