Fast food: Sushi style

Inoko Sushi Express
2301 College Station Road
706-546-5662

By CANDICE PHILLIPS

Hi-wa-shee! What did they say? Your guess is as good as mine.

As I walk into Inoko Sushi Express in Athens, Georgia, I am greeted with a shout from what appears to be about two or three sushi chefs standing at the far end of the room behind a sushi bar. The lights are dimmed and there were about 12 to 15 tables to choose from. I ran a quick scan of my surroundings attempting to locate the health inspection score, 96, the bathroom would concur. I recognized the faint music as being an older tone of Maroon 5.

I was then directed to a table in front of me equipped with golf pencils and paper menus where I was instructed to tally up my desired dinner, which I then gave to the cashier. There is a huge menu of hibachi style entrees and sushi rolls to choose from with items ranging from around $3.00 to $10.00.

I started off with self-serve and complimentary to all, onion soup with little brown “crunchies”, which I later came to discover were tempura-fried something-or-others. This perfectly salted warm broth is just the thing for a chilly fall evening. The warm broth reminds me of my younger days when my older brother would tease me with the thoughts that this traditional murky looking soup might be a remnant of leftover dish water.

My next dish was a bed of green lettuce covered in ginger dressing. Even after getting passed the look of the runny ginger, there was not anything exciting about this handful-sized salad.

Less then ten minutes go by and my number is called. After fighting the impulse to yell “bingo” I raised my hand and my food is placed on the table in front of me. The special of the day and from what I hear pretty much every day, teriyaki chicken and fried rice with vegetables. My first bite consisted of a flavorful quarter-sized piece of chicken covered in teriyaki sauce. Not satisfied with the separated piles of food my plate, I mixed the chicken, fried rice and vegetables all into one large pile of hibachi goodness and cover it in “yellow sauce”. The “yellow sauce”, also known as “shrimp sauce” and “seafood sauce”, is a robust, peach colored, creamy-based sauce that contains what I assume to be mayonnaise and paprika among other things.

My guest ordered the Yum-Yum Roll. And yum-yum it was. This tempura fried roll consists of spicy tuna, cream cheese and the usual seaweed and rice. This delectable roll contains just the right amount of spice without dominating the pallet. When soaked in the right amount of teriyaki or soy sauce the flash fried, slightly breaded outside absorbs the sauce making for a “yum-yum” texture.

The expectations of an “express” sushi restaurant were somewhat modest, however, I found it to be absolutely satisfying in terms of its food as well as its environment.

Next time you are looking for an express sushi fix, be sure to check out Inoko Sushi Express. Fast food in a Japanese fashion. You are sure to have a yum-yum experience.